Triumph Speed Triple Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I get some :beer:, get the bike all set up in the garage, and proceed to get to the valve spring. At this point the headers are off, throttle bodies off, cams out, etc. I loosen two of the head bolts in pattern and realize that the third one has been stripped. No bite whatsoever, its completely rounded. The last place to touch the bike was a triumph dealership (supposedly) around Las Vegas where I bought it. I need to buy a new head-bolt and somehow get the old one out. I was thinking of getting my buddy over to weld a socket onto the bolt so I can get enough force behind it to loosen. Any suggestions? I loved riding it for the first two weeks I owned it (October 06) but ever since then It has gained 0 miles due to problem after problem :poop: :poop: :poop:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,934 Posts
kuhlka said:
Avoid welding as much as possible. It'll weaken the bolt and probably just shear the head off, at which point you'd have to use a bolt/screw extractor.
+1 on no welding, also because you have to ground the welder thru the rest of the engine, which may end up welding something else inside like a crank journal (THIS IS BAD!!). My approach would be to drill the head of the bolt off using a drill bit approx the same size as the allen socket, then once the cylinder head is removed grab the shank of the remainder with a pair of vise grips and spin it out. It should come out easily once the tension is removed.

I would not suggest this if the head wasn't coming off anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,149 Posts
premier said:
Well I'll be damned! If it's sold on TV, it must be good!? :devil:
all of that fer under $20?!? (Only $19.95 pricedoesnotincludeshippingoranyothervariouschargesthatmayincludebutnotlimitedtothemakingoftheparthandlingofitlookingatitthinkingaboutitthinkingsomemoreandallofthat :bs: :blah: :blah: :blah:)

;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
767 Posts
s32k1 said:
The bolt did not get moved at all due to the lack of "grabbin points" in the opening. Will that Grab It have enough bite for the torque put on the head bolt?
Don't know. I haven't had a chance to use it in a situation such as yours, where the bolt has a shitload of torque. I know that with the bolt head completely gone, those bits grab the screws like nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well here goes. I went down to Lowes and bought the kit about 30 minutes ago. Got back into my garage and started tinkering away. Got the bit to bite, took the power drill off and switched over to a wrench. Used my "gentle yet strong" approach and after about 10 minutes the top 1/4 inch of the bit broke off in the damn bolthead! now I cant even get that tip out! Looks like a welder is my last approach to this one unfortunately. Unless of course you guys come up with another solution?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32,016 Posts
kartstar said:
My approach would be to drill the head of the bolt off using a drill bit approx the same size as the allen socket, then once the cylinder head is removed grab the shank of the remainder with a pair of vise grips and spin it out. It should come out easily once the tension is removed.
I'd like to second this approach. If it can be made to work it'll save you a lot of pain. I also agree that welding something to the bolt head is probably NOT going to work and would likely cause more problems anyway. If you must try that idea, make sure your ground lead is as close to the bolt as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
359 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tried to drill it out and the drill angle wont work right. I tried to remove the bolt with one of those removal bits and ended up with a 1/4 inch chunk of metal blocking the hole i drilled. I now have to try and drill THROUGH both the headbolt AND the piece of bit. I returned the kit about an hour ago for a full refund.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,934 Posts
s32k1 said:
I tried to drill it out and the drill angle wont work right. I tried to remove the bolt with one of those removal bits and ended up with a 1/4 inch chunk of metal blocking the hole i drilled. I now have to try and drill THROUGH both the headbolt AND the piece of bit. I returned the kit about an hour ago for a full refund.
Oooooh - that sucks. That piece of metal broken off in there will be hardened, and probably will just eat drill bits until you commit suicide. You can try to shatter it (make sure you have eye protection) with a (hardened) pin punch and hammer, but while that works in theory, it rarely works in practice - usually the chunk of bullshit chinese case-hardened potmetal ends up completely wedged in place and you chip off the end of a nice punch.

Make sure whoever welds it grounds their welder ON the bolt head, if possible. You may need to stand there and hold a screwdriver bit wedged against the bolthead with the ground wire clamped to it. Good luck, my man!

...At least you got your money back! ::)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,186 Posts
If the bolt outs from Craftsman don't work (I too have had those things save my ass) and you have to weld a socket to the head, I can't stress enough how important it is to ground under the head of the bolt. The screwdriver with the ground attached to it is a good idea. The current is more than enough to tack weld all kinds of shit inside the engine that you obviously don't want welded. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,028 Posts
s32k1 said:
I tried to drill it out and the drill angle wont work right. I tried to remove the bolt with one of those removal bits and ended up with a 1/4 inch chunk of metal blocking the hole i drilled. I now have to try and drill THROUGH both the headbolt AND the piece of bit. I returned the kit about an hour ago for a full refund.
We have some methods in the machine shop for this.....but most require fixturing the entire engine in the drill press or mill. I WOULD NOT attempt to drill out the remainder of the tool you were using, even the cheap tools are hardened (many times too hard) and you'll probably damage more stuff. I'm not trying to jab at you, but I've had plenty of experience due to my own mistakes and trying to help you avoid similar problems.

I have seen a high frequency sonic machine that shatters hardened tooling but won't harm aluminum, etc. Perfect place for it...but it's so expensive no one I know has one (I saw it at a trade show and supposedly UNC Chapel Hill has one).

I haven't been into my engine and my manual isn't handy, so I can't offer much at this point. If the bolt isn't in a recess, maybe you can saw off the bolt-head (someone else mentioned drilling off the head earlier, prior to the hardened tool problem) and then lift off the part, removing bolt remainder later.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top