You'll need a special tool to do it as well as a feeler gauge, shims (if any need to be swapped out for the correct clearance), and gaskets. I just take mine to the dealership and pay the $150ish to have them do it. The last two times I've had them checked, nothing was out of adjustment so you never know. It'd be worth buying the tool, but the cost of the gaskets + time makes it worth it for me to just drop off the bike.
Valve Clearance Check/Adjust
My '03 955i is rapidly hitting 12000 miles, and I am starting to think that maybe I should do the Check/Adjustment service myself.
Although I haven't done it on the Speed Triple before, I feel pretty comfortable with some tools in hand to do the job.
But I was wondering if any of you have come across some DIY articles with pix for this kind of mechanical work.
Any suggestions or advise will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
Although I haven't done it on the Speed Triple before, I feel pretty comfortable with some tools in hand to do the job.
But I was wondering if any of you have come across some DIY articles with pix for this kind of mechanical work.
Any suggestions or advise will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Here's a few links.
http://canyonchasers.com/shop/955i/valves.php
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/valves/
IMO i'd rather do it with the tool than have to remove the cams like on the 05+ I was really uncomfortable with that when I did my valves. I found 2 intake valves out of spec (loose) while all of the exhuast valve were at the loose range of spec. I think the factory does this because the valves tend to tighten after time.
It was very un-nerving to have it all apart like that, but I plan to make checking the adjustments a yearly job no matter the mileage. Makes a good winter project while you can't ride.
http://canyonchasers.com/shop/955i/valves.php
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/valves/
IMO i'd rather do it with the tool than have to remove the cams like on the 05+ I was really uncomfortable with that when I did my valves. I found 2 intake valves out of spec (loose) while all of the exhuast valve were at the loose range of spec. I think the factory does this because the valves tend to tighten after time.
It was very un-nerving to have it all apart like that, but I plan to make checking the adjustments a yearly job no matter the mileage. Makes a good winter project while you can't ride.
Is that just for the valve adjustment? The 12K service starts at $500, depending on what you need, goes up from there. It also involves the headstock bearing adjustment, tearing the rear hub apart and lubiuing the rear wheel bearing cooling system flushed and everything they do with the 6K service. It's expensive, but involves a lot of work. The $500 is pretty much just the labor and some gaskets; price goes up depending on your bike needing any worn parts replaced.kuhlka said:I just take mine to the dealership and pay the $150ish to have them do it.
A lot of that stuff I do myself as it doesn't require any special tools. If it requires special tools I don't have, I take it in. That reminds me, I need to open up my cush drive and see if anything needs to be replaced or lubed up.
I spoke to my mechanic down at the local T dealership today and basically learned that valve adjustments are expensive and somewhat complicated.
I have a Speed Triple and a Tiger, so now we are looking at @ $1000.00.
With a fairly spacious garage and a bunch of tools (but no Triumph special tools currently) I think that this will be an adventure well worth launching.
Hell, at 1K I feel fairly motivated and I get to know my bikes better and more intimately.
I pulled out my Shop Manual for my Speed Triple , and I will be reading chapter 3: The Cylinder Head.
One might as well be bold, right?
I have a Speed Triple and a Tiger, so now we are looking at @ $1000.00.
With a fairly spacious garage and a bunch of tools (but no Triumph special tools currently) I think that this will be an adventure well worth launching.
Hell, at 1K I feel fairly motivated and I get to know my bikes better and more intimately.
I pulled out my Shop Manual for my Speed Triple , and I will be reading chapter 3: The Cylinder Head.
One might as well be bold, right?
Some have built their own tool - there are several diagrams for the tool on t595.net, but you may have to be a premium member. If you are not one, let me know, I have saved a few of the diagrams and can send them to Catahoulabulldog to put in the download section.
I say hell yes!timoteusmunk said:I spoke to my mechanic down at the local T dealership today and basically learned that valve adjustments are expensive and somewhat complicated.
I have a Speed Triple and a Tiger, so now we are looking at @ $1000.00.
With a fairly spacious garage and a bunch of tools (but no Triumph special tools currently) I think that this will be an adventure well worth launching.
Hell, at 1K I feel fairly motivated and I get to know my bikes better and more intimately.
I pulled out my Shop Manual for my Speed Triple , and I will be reading chapter 3: The Cylinder Head.
One might as well be bold, right?
Nothing like gaining a higher level of intimacy between you and your ride!
Better yet pull out the digital caera and chronical the experience for all of us following along. ;D
Pix, yes that is a good idea. But how I do I post them? I have a smugmug account. Perhaps I could somehow link things up that way.
Not familiar with smugmug, but photobucket is very good for that kind of thing. I used picturetrail for a while, but photobucket is way easier to use.
Speaking of Valves and such, it seems to me that Triumph at some point changed from shim-over-bucket to shim-under-bucket for the Speed Triples. I am wondering about the reason for this. Could it have something to do with high(er) RPM, and/or extended service intervals?
For the 955i, the cams need removing to access the Shim-under-Bucket.
I assume it is similar on the 1050.
I spent some time yesterday creating a Valve Clearance Adjustment Worksheet for Triumph Three Cylinder Engines.
When I get closer to the actual service, I'll try to share my experience.
I found this book on the web:
Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, Sprint, Tiger Repair Manual 1997-2005
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/haytriumdays.html
For the 955i, the cams need removing to access the Shim-under-Bucket.
I assume it is similar on the 1050.
I spent some time yesterday creating a Valve Clearance Adjustment Worksheet for Triumph Three Cylinder Engines.
When I get closer to the actual service, I'll try to share my experience.
I found this book on the web:
Triumph Daytona, Speed Triple, Sprint, Tiger Repair Manual 1997-2005
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/haytriumdays.html
The early 955 was shim-over-bucket - easy to work on if you have the tool.
The later 955i and 1050 have shim-UNDER-bucket, for easy of construction/assembly, and reduced wear -especially at higher rpm.
The later 955i and 1050 have shim-UNDER-bucket, for easy of construction/assembly, and reduced wear -especially at higher rpm.
Devi:
Upon checking the valve clearance on my s3 at 12,000 miles, and then learning that ALL shims are within specification range.
Do I check the clearance next time at 24,000 or sooner?
Upon checking the valve clearance on my s3 at 12,000 miles, and then learning that ALL shims are within specification range.
Do I check the clearance next time at 24,000 or sooner?
The service manager at my shop told me that after the 12,000 valve check, they usually stay within spec past the 24,000. I just turned 27,000 today and am bringing mine in for the valve adjust/check next week. I have the tool, but don't want to learn mid summer when I can be riding, in case I fook it up. Here is a link to a tool for 49 buckshttp://www.geocities.com/mustanggarage/shim_tool.html
Munk - What were the measured specs on your valves?
rbrsddn is correct that most of the wear occurs under 12,000 miles rather than over.
rbrsddn is correct that most of the wear occurs under 12,000 miles rather than over.
Devious:
My question for you was hypothetical, as I haven't yet checked the Valve Clearance. But you already answered my question. As you said, most of the wear happens <-12,000 miles. I have another 2,000 miles to go, which will come up soon enough. But in the meantime, I am just gathering information, rtfm and such, so that on the day I will be fairly well prepared and relaxed at the same time.
I attached my version of a Valve Adjustment Worksheet. Please check below.
My question for you was hypothetical, as I haven't yet checked the Valve Clearance. But you already answered my question. As you said, most of the wear happens <-12,000 miles. I have another 2,000 miles to go, which will come up soon enough. But in the meantime, I am just gathering information, rtfm and such, so that on the day I will be fairly well prepared and relaxed at the same time.
I attached my version of a Valve Adjustment Worksheet. Please check below.
shim over bucket is old way to do the shim adjustment. some cars used that in the 70's and 80's(saab's).
Also honda boldor 900 -79 - 84 used this shim over bucket.
the main disadvantage is that when the shim is over the bucket, the shim must be big. hondas old shims are thicker then a coin and quite heavy. Because shim is heavy the valve springs must be harder, so they can raise also the heavy shim. So it's not good solution for high revolution engine.
also cam structure to cope with heavy valve springs must be big. So that is reason why old honda's have huge heads. and the engine comes very heavy.
shim under bucket has very small shim. it's also pretty much fool proof, the shim cannot drop off.
Also honda boldor 900 -79 - 84 used this shim over bucket.
the main disadvantage is that when the shim is over the bucket, the shim must be big. hondas old shims are thicker then a coin and quite heavy. Because shim is heavy the valve springs must be harder, so they can raise also the heavy shim. So it's not good solution for high revolution engine.
also cam structure to cope with heavy valve springs must be big. So that is reason why old honda's have huge heads. and the engine comes very heavy.
shim under bucket has very small shim. it's also pretty much fool proof, the shim cannot drop off.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
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