Zard Full System Install on a 955i
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Holy piss was today a long day. I got the system on the bike, but it took all day since I was doing it by myself. If I had an extra set of hands and a spare brain, it would have taken just a few hours.
I'll have pics up tomorrow and start working on my fairing install.
I'll have pics up tomorrow and start working on my fairing install.
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6,909 Posts
The O2 sensor just barely fit with the centerstand. The feeling of torque with the baffle in is less than the high mount carbon TOR can and stock muffler, but everything is much smoother and easier to control. I'll probably remove the baffle this weekend to see what that does. I'll have more pics today. Went to a bike night with Tekmoe yesterday.
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3,665 Posts
Kuhlka - looks nice. Your Zard header doesn't seem to have the silencer material in the header like the 1050 versions.
Do you plan on dyno tuning?
Do you have a 'before' dyno graph?
Do you plan on dyno tuning?
Do you have a 'before' dyno graph?
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6,909 Posts
What is the easiest way to remove that baffle to be able to possibly put it back in later? Has anyone removed theirs then put it back in later when they wanted a nice quiet exhaust? I don't mind the sound right now, but the bike has definitely lost some low-end grunt with the baffle. The nice thing is that the ride has smoothed out a LOT with the full system on there. I'm just curious as to how the bike will perform with the baffle out.
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5,195 Posts
An internal snap-ring pliers may be all you need.
However some (mine included) had a spot weld binding the baffle to the can (I think it was at the 12 o'clock position roughly). You may need to remove the snap ring to see it, and definitely need it out prior to drilling.
I drilled mine with a 3/8" bit just enough so I could break it free. Came apart very easy then.
Good Luck!
Edit: Just saw your post "over there".
I think the snap ring ought to be more than enough to hold the baffle in. It seemed VERY stout when I was taking it out!
However some (mine included) had a spot weld binding the baffle to the can (I think it was at the 12 o'clock position roughly). You may need to remove the snap ring to see it, and definitely need it out prior to drilling.
I drilled mine with a 3/8" bit just enough so I could break it free. Came apart very easy then.
Good Luck!
Edit: Just saw your post "over there".
I think the snap ring ought to be more than enough to hold the baffle in. It seemed VERY stout when I was taking it out!
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6,909 Posts
I finally got it out after 3 broken drill bits. Those Dewalt quick-release bits suck ass. It sounds a lot bassier and seems to breathe a lot better without the baffle. If the weather warms up this weekend I'll do a butt-dyno run to see how different it feels.
Pics tomorrow morning for sure now that I'm free from class for the weekend. Sorry for the delay on photos. I'm a habitual procrastinator.
Pics tomorrow morning for sure now that I'm free from class for the weekend. Sorry for the delay on photos. I'm a habitual procrastinator.
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3,665 Posts
WHAT? You don't like bits with built in wobble, and that make oval holes? ;Dkuhlka said:
Let us know the results from the calibrated sphincter.
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Results are good...
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More pics here
http://www.kuhlka.net/pics/triumphs3/customprojects/Zard&Fairing/
More pics here
http://www.kuhlka.net/pics/triumphs3/customprojects/Zard&Fairing/
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12 Posts
Very sharp, nice work!
Steve Larson
Steve Larson
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6,909 Posts
Woooo, my fuel mapping is riiiiich. With the baffle out, the bike is banging and popping on decel like a mexican bandito firing in the air and the sound of it running down the road is like an ogre gargling jet fuel. I need to get this thing to a dyno asap! Oh, and the exhaust fumes reek of fuel. That was my first indication (other than the stock header and my previous exhaust being completely black inside). I think I'll call the local Triumph dealerships and ask them if they can recommend anyone local so I don't have to ride all the way to Houston and back.
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12 Posts
Not sure as we do not know what changes you have made, but a couple of thoughts...kuhlka said:
Popping on decel is a LEAN condition on partial throttle (assuming no pipe leaks), not rich. In fact, to cure it you need to richen the idle and just off idle sections of the curve with partial or closed throttle positions.
As for the excessive smell of fuel, we don't know yet as we do not know what you have put in there for settings or what box you are using?
But you have to admit that at night, a high rpm decel run can make for some VERY cool flames out the pipe! Get your camera out at least once before making it correct!!! ;D
Steve Larson
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